"By Ilene Cox
For the Daily Facts
For the next couple of weeks I'll be in Peru, visiting Lima, Cusco and Machu Picchu. My dear friend, Carolyn Groves, recently visited Vietnam, Cambodia and Myanmar and graciously offered to recount some of her experiences in Southeast Asia. I know you will enjoy the articles as much as I did.
My favorite question to ask seasoned travelers is, "what has been your favorite trip?" The usual answers are Africa, India, China, Egypt or Antarctica. No one has ever mentioned Vietnam; yet Vietnam and Cambodia are becoming the newest destinations for American tourists. Approximately 250,000 people visited Vietnam last year, and the projection is for that number to triple in the next few years. Before it got too crowded, my companion, Carl Soucek, and I, decided to visit Southeast Asia. We were not disappointed.
We landed at the airport outside Hanoi and traveled for about an hour to reach the city. We passed rice paddies attended by peasant women and dozens of small villages dotted the landscape. But what really caught our attention was the traffic; I though China was terrible, but nothing can compare to Vietnam. There are 80 million people living in Vietnam, and one million own motorbikes. It can only be termed chaotic. As far as I could tell, there are no apparent traffic laws every man for himself.
Everything is carried on the back of bikes boa constrictors, live chickens, dogs, doors, people. We even saw three little pigs in a cage I think these pigs were truly "going to market."
Children ride sandwiched between parents; sometimes the children are even sleeping. Beeping assaults the senses. It felt like a miracle when we arrived at our hotel. I was truly thankful we arrived in one piece.
Hanoi is a bustling city. The wide, tree-lined boulevards and gardens reveal the French colonial influence. Temples are everywhere. We were off to see Ho Chi Minh's house and tomb. The Vietnamese people revered Ho Chi Minh and affectionately called him "Uncle," which goes along with the family atmosphere in the country. "Auntie" and "Uncle" are terms used to show respect to the elderly. Ho Chi Mihn has been preserved like Chairman Mao in China and Stalin in Russia. The tomb is usually open daily for viewing, but unfortunately was closed during our visit for a touch-up.
Yearly they refresh him so that he is presentable. He personally wanted to be cremated, but his wishes were not respected; he was shipped off to Russia and preserved for future generations. So all we got to see was a rather plain looking building overlooking a large square and gardens; a meeting area for the people during festivities and celebrations.
Just around the corner we visited the beautiful French Colonial statehouse where official functions were held during Ho Chi Minh's reign, and are still used for official functions today. Ho Chi Minh never lived in the house. His main residence was a small, open-aired wooded structure on stilts that overlooks a small pond where, it was said, , he derived great pleasure in feeding his ducks. He liked the simple life.
You may ask if there is a Hilton in Hanoi? Yes, there is, and I have pictures to prove it. We did have an opportunity to visit the old French prison that was built in the 1800s known to us as the Hanoi Hilton.
Most of the prison has been torn down, but part of it has been turned into a museum, primarily to remind people of the brutality by the French to the Vietnamese people during the French occupation. It got very quiet as we toured the museum. We saw the cells, the shackles, the guillotines you could almost hear the agony and pain that has been absorbed into these walls.
In one room we saw pictures depicting the life of our servicemen during their imprisonment pictures of them eating a great Christmas meal, receiving mail, doctors attending their physical needs obviously all propaganda. John McCain's flight suit is encased in a glass exhibit along with pictures of him while he was imprisoned there. In 2002, Sen. McCain visited Vietnam with his family. That must have been an eye opener for his children, as it was for us.
After a lovely Vietnamese lunch and a break from the humid, hot weather, we were off on a pedi-cab ride around the "old town" section of Hanoi.
Pedi-cabs are man-powered bicycles with seating for two people. We traveled among the one-way streets, where each street is known for what they sell one whole street sells just shoes or will sell just spices. In the beginning I was very nervous about the bustling traffic careening in and around me, but eventually I forgot about it and just enjoyed the friendly people and the sights and sounds of daily living. A great experience!
We had a few hours to go shopping so we jumped in a pedi-cab and took off for the local shopping area. One dollar can get almost anything in Vietnam.
They love our dollars. You have to understand that they are only two generations away from the Vietnam War, so these lovely people are focusing on the future, and not what happened in the past. Shopping is a bargainer's dream wonderful hand crafted items, particularly textiles. For $5 we bought four T-shirts; one of them had the saying, "Good Morning, Vietnam," from the Robin Williams movie too funny. The Vietnamese people are open to making money any way they can. You have to admire their industrious spirit. Good ol' American enterprise is alive and well here or should I say, Vietnamese enterprise is alive and well and flourishing in Vietnam. In this shopping area you will often see stores that are shared by several families, each selling something different so as not to compete with one another.
One of the most delightful experiences I had in Hanoi was on this shopping trip. After cautiously crossing a street, I witnessed a daughter standing over her seated mother, pulling out her mother's gray hair! I smiled and laughed and they laughed. Vanity is also alive and well in Vietnam.
In the evening we went to see the world famous Hanoi Water Puppet show. This production has been all over the world. The puppets are attached to long poles and individuals behind the stage maneuver them in the depiction of farm life planting rice fields, fishing, and boat racing.
Musicians' sing and play instruments for an added dimension to the production. They are truly amazing to watch.
It had been a very busy day and we were tired. Join me next week on our visit to Ho Chi Minh City.
Redlands resident Ilene Cox is the owner of Redlands Travel Service.Vietnam quickly becoming a tourist destination"
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Just see what Nonviet think about our country...